Big Dipper and Bear Poop

Another weekend up in the Boulder River area. More brushing, more FA’s and more fun! So much more to be done of all that!

DSC_5386

Love this place!

DSC_5363

Sander is going to work…

DSC_5374

Team work brushing of the top of “Spears of Madness”…

DSC_5207

Sander did the FA of “Big Dipper”, V12 yesterday! YES! Could not ask for a better problem! Good job!!

DSC_5399DSC_5392

Dinner for tjockisar!

bear poop

Found a bear poop right by camp this morning. Not steaming but still glad to be sleeping in a car. Don’t know how much luck I’d have with my hatchet…

Cosmos

Another fun day on what we now call the Cosmos boulder. We kept working on/cleaning stuff we started working on last time and Christine cleaned another boulder just across the way.

Some photos of us trying the straight up line on the middle of the face:

DSC_5207

DSC_5228

DSC_5217

DSC_5234

DSC_5208

DSC_5242

DSC_5246

 

Christine is cleaning away…

DSC_5256

 

The following photos are of the Supernova project. 17 moves straight up with an exiting top out, cool to see Sander showing how its done.

DSC_5272

DSC_5257

DSC_5259

DSC_5263

 

 

 

 

MORIA

Anyone out there with some dwarf work ethic who wants to help me in MORIA? MOOOAAHHAHAHAHARRR!

Mordor 7

Mordor 1

Mordor 8

Mordor 2

Mordor 3

Mordor 4

Mordor 5

Mordor 6

St. George, UT

 I am going to let the pictures speak even more for them self in this one than I usually do. I am on my way to some sketchy motel for a shower and mimosas by the pool. More to come. 

DSC_4682

DSC_4675

DSC_4812

DSC_4789

DSC_4766

DSC_4702

DSC_4732

DSC_4807

DSC_4827

DSC_4851

Decapitated while stuck in the snow

After seeing Jon Scott hauling ass through deep heavy snow, plowing the road in to the parking lot for Whiskey with his Subaru (not a truck) I felt like I had to follow his tracks. Literally. Now I know that that’s not always a good idea. This ended up leading to a 1.5-hour, 6-person evacuation job. While I was going in to hardcore survival mode I was a little bit confused seeing the rest of the party laughing and having a good time. I guess I just have to spend more time in MT and its driving conditions, get toughened up a little bit. It set a good start for the day.

warmup

Jon on the wave  Christine on the V3 from hell

Lady Sharkfist

Nick on Caught in the Act  DSC_4606

I was able to do the first ascent of one of the projects on Caught in the Act boulder today. I called it, “Decapitated” V11, named after the Polish metal band we all love.

Decapitated 1  Decapitated 2

Decapitated 3

Decapitated 4  Decapitated 5

Decapitated 6

Decapitated 7

Grappling Tournament in Butte, MT

Montana Grappling had another tournament this weekend, this time in Butte, MT. I competed in both the no-gi and gi competitions, and had a good time. Felt like there was decent amount of people in each bracket. I learned a buttload of stuff: what seems to work for me and what doesn’t, and a lot about what I most need to  get my shit together on. My biggest “A ha!” realization after the tournament is: how much nerves and adrenaline affect my energy, strength, speed and head… well, I guess that’s just part of the whole game! I guess I just have to do more of this stuff and get used to it, so I can do tournaments and be more relaxed. I came out on top in both my divisions (no-gi and gi) and got myself two gold medals. I’m going to the pawn shop!

Thanks to everyone who made the tournament happen.

Here are videos of most of my matches:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ryder is getting it done in one of his matches:

 

 

Here is a link to all the other 250+ matches:

http://www.youtube.com/user/MontanaGrappling/videos

 

Have a good one!

Pipestone

The last few weekends I’ve spent in the Pipestone area bouldering. A bunch of pictures below, BUT, since my 6-out-of-10 wife stole them all, there’s probably nothing new or exiting.

Parking

Parking, try not to get smooshed by dirt bikes, 4-wheelers, buggies or any other mega redneck toys.

DSC_3868

Alex on Sharkfist  DSC_3846

Alex Herbert on “Sharkfist”

DSC_3872  DSC_3874

Christine on “Paresthesia”, Pin Garden Boulders

DSC_3870

Joe Manlove on some ground-up cleaning on a random classic slab.

DSC_3878

Jarred working “The Wild Pony”

DSC_3880  DSC_3893

Jon “Runkmuskeln” Scott on “The Wild Pony”

DSC_3906

Post-lunch shenanigans

DSC_3898

The ultimate butt shot

DSC_3970

Jeff Ho on the last good find of the day

DSC_3950  DSC_3973

DSC_3981

I would say that this is pretty rare. I guess that depends on who you ask or where you are. To me, this climb is pretty damn cool.

DSC_3988  DSC_3993

Joe is on his way up…

DSC_3995

DSC_4017

Richard Cranium

The result of my latest solo mission to Pipestone, right behind the big’ol crack is now “Richard Cranium.” It ended up being a good little slab with an even better sit start that’s not done yet.

Have a good one.

Wolverine

I have probably been whining about a lack of climbing during the last months in some of my recent blog posts. There is already enough wining and excuses to last a life time in the climbing community–which gets tedious after a while–and I do NOT want to be that guy. So, anyway.

Recently I’ve been going up to Wolverine to bolt and climb. This is an old crag that grabbed the attention of local developers in the last few years. New lines are being established all over the place.

First of all, I am so psyched to not deal with fucking choss up there; so far, the one route I put up, I only used my toothbrush to clean the majority of the climb–which is rare for me. At least compared to the mossy fucking lumberjack cleaning that’s going on back in the woods of Värmland.

I feel more and more how the rock quality plays such a big part in a good area, whether it’s climbing or bouldering. It’s just so much better, and more fun to be on.

DSC_3357

IMG_2236

Wolverine

DSC_3411

DSC_3471

DSC_3495

IMG_2217

The part of the wall that we proudly named “Sweden.” There I am, climbing “Kyrkbrand” for the first time. 5.11, 120 feet (16 bolts!!!!).

IMG_2218

IMG_2222

The steper part of “Sweden” probably has room for 8-ish routes. Can’t wait to get the rest of the wall established. Hopefully it turns out as good as I imagine. Well, with good rock, I find it hard to fail…

IMG_2225

We are getting the hell out of there while we still can!

DSC_3373

BRA STEIN!

From Wolverine

Ear Nursing

 

Cauliflower ear, hear we go….

DSC_3127

DSC_3133

DSC_3139

DSC_3142

 

DSC_3151

 

Wiskey #whatever

It’s apparently been a long time since I did something worth posting about. I don’t know if the content in this post is much more interesting, but, fuck it.

Anyway, a lot of non-climbing stuff has happened in the last months: I was back in Sweden for the holidays and work, came back and dealt with damn flu shit, have been doing lots of jiu-jitsu, AND I got a job, which I’m obviously super grateful for. So now I make wood floors 40+ hours a week, and this leaves me with way less time for other stuff. I guess that is how it is to have a job, especially job of this nature, physical labor that is. In other words, I turned into a weekend warrior overnight. I just need to get toughened up a little bit before I really can take advantage of the weekends.

We had another day in Wiskey Gulch a couple of weeks ago, a low-key place in the middle of nowhere, which offers some real test pieces and a bunch of “classics.”

Bozeman

I-90

Montaaaaana

Yeah Right   Magestic, mmh, YES

What the fuck are you looking at

Pervert

sick

NO   Get it

Stein

Jeff

Jeff Ho on a super cool problem which I think still is a project. A little piece of Bishop right there. Next day off, this is where I will be.

jeff 3

Brush, damn it

Another fun project on the same boulder which required some “gentle” power-spotting…

tryck   offamejen

Huh

BUTT

Stop staring you damn, damn perv.